Beijing is eastern. Beijing is western. It's old. It's new. It's past. It's present. It has old street vendors, fruit carts, bicycles, hutongs (alleyways), temples and small out of the way shops and restaurants. It's new high-rises, railroads and subways, buses and cabs, large expressways, malls and other superstores.
Yes, it's true, Wal-Mart has made it to Beijing, China.
The Wal-Mart here has a very strange feel to it. After all it's a Wal-Mart in the middle of Beijing, China. When you get off the subway there is a sign that tells you which way to go to get to the Wal-Mart. There's the big traditional Wal-Mart sign on the store itself and the same old carts with the Wal-Mart logo. However, its the inside that really is weird. It's not American, or Chinese, or European, or anything. It's kind of all these wrap up in one. There are American products, Chinese products, European products, etc... Well, wait minute. Maybe, in that regard, it really is American. But the layout is definitely not what one would expect for a Wal-Mart. It's actually 3 floors. Groceries are on the bottom floor, clothes and health and beauty products, household items, cleaners, etc... are on the 2nd floor and electronics are on the 3rd floor. Everything is not spread out like in the U.S.. It's more compact. The isles are not as wide and every time I've been in there, they're restocking shelves so everything is in the already cramped isles. Add to this the mass of people that come through the doors every day (in many cases pushing and shoving) and you begin to get a picture of what I'm talking about.
Yesterday I decided to go to Wal-Mart. We needed some things so I got on my bike, fought the traffic, and within about 45mins I was off my bike and heading into the store.
Before I go any further I guess I should mention a little about the traffic here. Any kind of traffic sign or light, whether it is on the road, on a sign post or just simply hanging from the sky, is merely a suggestion. Drivers see the stop light and say to themselves,
"Let's see. I know the light is telling me to stop, BBUUTTT ..... If I cut across these 10 lanes of traffic, nearly sideswiping 30 or 40 cars and 2 buses in the process, run over these 10 pedestrians and 50 bicyclists, and smash through the 50 billion fruit cart vendors over there .... I won't have to stop! Sounds like a plan!!"
This seems all pretty fun while riding in a taxi, but not when your one of the pedestrians or bicyclists that is going to get run over.
Well let's just say that I was nearly run off the road by a guy who was getting a little frustrated by the traffic jam he was in. In order get around the traffic he pulled into the bike lane that I was in. At first this was not a problem because he was in front of me. As I was going around on the passenger side, however, the guy started to pull even more into the bike lane where I was riding. He was basically cutting me off. I know I could have stopped and moved my bike up onto the sidewalk and I most likely would have if had had the time to think about it. But, I didn't. I just raised my left hand and pounded on his passenger window. This scared the crap out of the guy. (well, that and the fact that I yelled at him) I then just rode off in the direction that I needed to go. The guy, on the other hand, drove by me and just swerved into me a little bit, I think just to save some face.
I told you that so that you would understand my mind set when I got to Wal-Mart.
I walked in and it was packed and they were stocking shelves. I first went to the health and beauty department and tried to find Melody's kind of shampoo. You have no idea what it's like looking for something like this when everything is in Chinese. The best you can do is make an educated guess based on the bottle and the color of the lettering (or characters as the case may be). Melody thinks I got the right thing. (kuddo's for me) After that I had to go through the household items and go around to the escalator to go down to the grocery store part. This is where my stress level started to go through the roof!!
I got off the escalator was immediately assaulted by all the noise. All the employees working in the vegetable and fruit sections, as well meat butchers, were all yelling and screaming out the specials of the day. (I think. They were screaming something and it wasn't the same thing. ) In the dairy section it was like one big infomercial!! Employees with headsets and microphones with little amps and speakers all broadcasting very loudly trying to get customers to try out the new yogurt, or cheese, or whatever other product they wanted. I guess it was kind of like pavilion at the NYS fair.
So, to summarize,
Almost run off the road.
Lots of noise,
People everywhere,
Lots more noise,
Lots more people everywhere.
As I was standing in the middle of Wal-Mart, in Beijing, China I came to a startling conclusion. I could see and hear everyone but did not understand them and they could hear and see me, but didn't understand me either. I could not communicate with them and they could not communicate with me. At that moment in time, I was alone, an island unto myself. I was frustrated and angry and sad all at the same time. It's just like the movie "Lost in Translation". I'm in a city of 17.5 million people and 95% of them I can't talk to.
Well, needless to say, I quickly got what I came for, went back up the escalator to the check out area, paid for my stuff and practically ran out of the store ..... and then I started to breathe again. I got home as quick as I could and after going to the little store here in our apartment complex to get some ice cream, I spent some time at home just being quiet. (or just talking with Melody for a while. I can understand her and she can understand me. I also had some ice cream. It cures all things. Trust me!!)
Don't get me wrong. This place has a lot of good things to offer. The people really are good and kind. Beijing is a place of culture and history and beauty and art. And the people here are very proud of their heritage. I guess I'm just not over the culture shock yet.
I not sure when or if I will ever will be.
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